All of this meant an early start was in order. Bleary-eyed, we rolled out of bed at 6:15 or so, and were down at Pianegiani (where my car was parked) about 6:40. Ilio (the owner, baker extraordinaire) had already filled the alley with a sumptuous aroma of butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Possibly a little chocolate in the mix.
We told him what we were up to (why, in fact, we were up at that ungodly hour), and he offered to make us some coffee. The bar was unlocked with the doors open, but the business was definitely not ready to start. But gee whiz, coffee sounded excellent to both of us, so we didn't have the moral fiber to say no. As we started sipping, he said he had to get back to it, and we could just pay him later. He zipped back up the alley to his kitchen (did I forget to mention that the kitchen's in a different building? It is.), and we finished up, clearing up the dishes we left.
As we got back to the car, Ilio reemerged from the doorway of his laboratory. "They're out! Do you want some pastries for the road?" Not being foolish, we of course acquiesced. We pulled our choices directly off the baking tray, wrapping them in napkins, and putting them in a plastic tray that was kicking around. Breakfast!
I had to fill up with gas before we left town. The thing is, they have 24-hour pumps, of a sort. You put in cash, and then get gas in that amount. The trouble is, I've never figured out how to fill up. I've only ever been able to put in 20 euros or whatever. So I did that. Once in Foligno, I figured I'd used enough gas to warrant another 20 euros (and to avoid unpleasant problems during the drive, which would be several hours), so I went to another gas station.
And that's when I learned about the system! If you want to fill up at a 24-hour place, you put in too much money, and you fill up the tank. Then a receipt prints out, saying how much changed you're owed! Next time you stop at that station, you show them the receipt and they reimburse you that amount...great system, assuming you're a local, right? Right? Well, okay, maybe the US is a little ahead in that respect. But I thought it was kind of neat. And very cute.
Norcia was fun because we got to go right into centro and park in the main piazza. Since we were there for an hour and a half, Jeremy and I got gelato, went into two museums (one of them twice), and had some coffee. The museums had some amazing Etruscan pottery, Roman glass, and some carriages (which Jeremy enjoyed evaluating for shock absorption, mechanical gearing, etc.). The main museum was originally the site of the papal legate's palazzo, and included a tunnel from the courtyard to outside the city walls. These could be used to smuggle people in and out, and also to deal with prisoners in various ways. Jeremy persuaded the guard to let him wander around in the tunnel...since she was on her own, she unlocked the door and shooed him down on his own.
Off to Preci, a small town, for an amazing lunch. We had the traditional starters of a plate of prosciutto and other cured meats, cheese, etc. Then came pasta with truffles. Then meats: lamb (some of the best I've ever tasted), beef on arugula, and boar (all superb). Roast potatoes that were crispy and crunchy outside, fluffy inside. Salad. "Zuppa inglese" for dessert. Local wines. Coffee. You know the drill. Anyway, a mere 3 1/2 hours later (5 pm by this time), we were ready to go home.
Love,
Alexandra
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| 15th-16th century church...sidestop |
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| Norcia centro. The palazzo behind is the museum. |
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| There were around 60 cars...so sweet! |
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| Check out the VW microbus |
