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| India Gate |
Today involved a trip to the Arts and Crafts museum. To appease Jeremy, we elected to take part of the trip on the metro. It was a very interesting experience, actually! We arrived at the station via tuk tuk, and then went up the steps. Yes, this section was elevated. I purchased the tokens (not tickets) that were imprinted electronically with the station of origin and
the value (10 rupees...about 15 cents). Having gone through separate pat-downs (this is the norm everywhere, it seems) based on sex, we placed the token on a reader at the turnstyle; we were informed via a screen how much value was on said token. For the said cost, we were able to hop on a remarkably clean (but equally remarkably crowded) subway car. We were quite thankful to get off. To exit the station, we had to insert the token at the turnstyle. Since there was no residual value, the turnstyle ate the token, and off we went!
Two additional tuk tuks took us to our destination. It turned out to be a lovely experience, despite the ridiculously long wait for the restaurant (over an hour, after having been promised 20 minutes...we kept going back to check on progress, while trying to see parts of the museum in order to divert ourselves during the wait). There were huts arranged on the grounds that were constructed using traditional techniques from various regions in India...think Williamsburg on a very limited scale (just buildings...no furniture, people, etc.). Extremely interesting. There were also exhibits of current Indian fashion and weaving techniques, handcrafts, etc. Back in the courtyard area, there were booths that had various wares for sale, most of them at reasonable pricing. We had a lot of fun checking the items out (and possibly buying a few), and then it was time to eat!
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We saw this outside the museum;
not sure what it is. |
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| Cut paper; isn't the detail amazing? |
A delightful and delicious lunch (which was wasted on me, unfortunately, as I have a head cold and caddot breed), and we were back at work, checking out items in the gift shop. Where was the museum, you ask? Well, there was one exhibit that we know of...Korean funerary rites...that the kids mostly went through. I saw part of it, but was then put in the way of helping some children with purchases while others were kept firmly away from the transaction.
Off to find a tuk tuk to take us to more shopping! Yes, it sounds as though it's all we've done...but the experience of these markets is so rich in culture, it's hard to describe.
Anyway, back to the tuk tuks. I had previously ascertained the appropriate price from the museum shop. The first guys refused our maximum price (150 rupees each) and drove off. Bummer! The next guy was amenable, but the second one in this set boldly proclaimed 300 rupees each driver! Our main driver laughed at him and clearly told him he was an idiot and to stop being so rapacious...his manly pride being hurt, he drove off, to be replaced by a more willing fellow. Having told our main driver that he had to keep with Michael's tuk tuk because Michael had the money (! and the ipad, to make sure they weren't driving us astray), we set off.
We liked our driver...he was a real dear, although he didn't speak a word of English other than basic prices. He understood that we didn't want to be pestered by flower sellers or the like, so he told all of them to shove off and leave us alone...and was remarkably successful at it! When he lost Michael's tuk tuk, he was concerned and worked really, really hard to catch up; we eventually found them in a traffic jam. He kept giving us the sweetest, most reassuring smiles in the rearview mirror, too. Yes, he got a bigger tip as a result!
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| Saris for sale above the KFC |
So...the Karol Bagh market. It was clearly a richer part of town than the main market. We split up in very limited ways, and while I was having my shoes polished (a desperate need), Eleanor was casing out shawls. The shoe polishers did an amazing job...they reglued, restitched, change the insoles, etc. They were most upset about Ashley's ruined boot, so wanted to reglue that, as well. While they were doing that, I went to chat with E about shawls, during which transaction I asked the proprietor about the appropriate price for the shoe work. He told me 50, max 60. Well. Come to find out, they were fussing at Michael and wanted
650!!! I marched back to the shop, explained the situation, and asked if they could possibly be so kind as to help us out. Yup. One of them came out, kvetched insistently to the shoeshine guys, told them they were nuts, and we ended up paying 100 (since they'd glued Ashley's sole, as well). Our mediator wouldn't even accept a tip; how nice is that?
Some more shopping and we were all ready to head home. I scored a double tuk tuk, and we exhibited our cultural awareness and all crammed in. The natives were greatly amused to see us acting like them; I suspect most people who look European prefer a more spacious seating arrangement.
Dinner. Bed. And tomorrow we pack!
Love,
Alexandra
After breakfast, I fulfilled one of my travel ambitions: riding in a bicycle rickshaw! My pretext was going to a pharmacy to get eucalyptus oil. I had seen one further up the street: just far enough away that I could "justify" riding in the rickshaw, but not far enough that I would end up on a busy street. We arranged 40 rupees per rickshaw (of course, the kids wanted to go, too!) for a there-and-back, and off we set. Well, bummer. The main destination wasn't yet open. Nothing daunted, the sweet fellows found out about another nearby pharmacy. He was open, but no eucalyptus oil. I told my pedalers that it was fine...we could just return to the hotel. But wait! On the way home, they found another pharmacy! They waited patiently for me to dismount again and inquire. No luck. So, in the end, my pretext didn't come to fruition, but I DID ride a bicycle rickshaw (and I later found a large-ish bottle of eucalyptus oil for $2 in the Main Bazaar).
Having breakfasted and packed, it was time to set off. Tuk tuks to the metro, then back through the metro mayhem. We discovered something interesting, though: the metro has a women-only carriage! There is even a security guard to tell men to scarper, and the announcements say that violations are "punishable" (whatever that means). It was a WHOLE lot less crowded and nicer, and I am a complete fan.
After breakfast, I fulfilled one of my travel ambitions: riding in a bicycle rickshaw! My pretext was going to a pharmacy to get eucalyptus oil. I had seen one further up the street: just far enough away that I could "justify" riding in the rickshaw, but not far enough that I would end up on a busy street. We arranged 40 rupees per rickshaw (of course, the kids wanted to go, too!) for a there-and-back, and off we set. Well, bummer. The main destination wasn't yet open. Nothing daunted, the sweet fellows found out about another nearby pharmacy. He was open, but no eucalyptus oil. I told my pedalers that it was fine...we could just return to the hotel. But wait! On the way home, they found another pharmacy! They waited patiently for me to dismount again and inquire. No luck. So, in the end, my pretext didn't come to fruition, but I DID ride a bicycle rickshaw (and I later found a large-ish bottle of eucalyptus oil for $2 in the Main Bazaar).
Having breakfasted and packed, it was time to set off. Tuk tuks to the metro, then back through the metro mayhem. We discovered something interesting, though: the metro has a women-only carriage! There is even a security guard to tell men to scarper, and the announcements say that violations are "punishable" (whatever that means). It was a WHOLE lot less crowded and nicer, and I am a complete fan.
