Sunday, June 21, 2020

Signs of Spring

One of the things we cherish about living here is the confluence of city life with access to nature. Not 50 meters from our front door, we have our city park. Although it is very small, there are lovely views and plenty of creatures and plants to enjoy.

I took most of these photos earlier this spring, but figured I'd post them here for posterity.



I love the architecture of this weed



I don't want to think how much
I spent on arum italicum for my
garden in the US.
They are weeds here!


Roses are apparently very easy to grow here




We are really enjoying the swifts, which have been back for
a few months now





Love,

Alexandra

Lofty Ambitions

For the first time ever, we had the chance to sing from the choir loft in the Duomo today. Because of the pandemic, spacing of choir members is of utmost concern; it seemed to the choir director and the priests to be the safest way to take care of the issue. An explanation is probably in order: we used to sing in the east transept (to the right of the altar), behind the organ. Since the church has been re-opened for Mass, however, we've been seated (spaced 2 per pew) at the front of the nave, but the acoustics and space constraints were making this untenable.

So now, we have the blessing of singing from the actual choir loft for the forseeable future! Built in 1530, this is a wonderful semi-circular structure located behind the altar. It is richly decorated with carving and inlay, and is remarkable for its fabulous condition and workmanship. The level of detail is astonishing.

It is also a joy to sing in, because the acoustics in the area are absolutely dreamy.

I didn't want to be too much of a tourist, so I limited myself to a very few photos so that you could enjoy at least some of our experience of the morning.
Each of these dividers is deliberately different

The Greek key motif has pieces that are only about 3 mm wide

The vertical dividers are all
carved with different patterns


The upper section, where
priests originally sat for the Mass






Love,

Alexandra


Construction Officially Complete

Last week saw the end of our major construction. At this point, we are down to missing light fixtures and towel rails and other details of that ilk.

Since the scaffolding is now down, our weekends include fun tasks like mortar removal from the outside of huge expanses of glass. However, that's not what I wanted to remember. Instead, I wanted to show what goes into a new roof.

We had our very own
road closure sign
The steps are (loosely) as follow:

1. Install scaffolding. In our case, we are on a road that was too narrow to permit normal scaffolding. This meant that they had to close the road for a few days, using that time to install "flying" scaffolding, which has to be bolted into your wall.
Although it seems ridiculously
small, this alley gets a fair amount
of traffic
2. Remove existing tiles
3. Remove existing gutters and downspouts
4. Scrape and inspect roof slab
5. Create a mortar barrier at the roof's edge to hold insulation in place
6. Install rigid foam insulation
7. Cover insulation with bituminous membrane
Some of the
Erector set pieces
8. Re-install tiles (using the old tiles as possible; any new tiles are put underneath, so they don't show)
9. Mortar tiles at top and bottom to provide stability
10. Install new (copper) gutters and downspouts
11. Remove scaffolding, including repair of bolt holes. This also requires 2 days' worth of road closure.

Taking down the scaffolding looks
very similar to putting it up,
unsurprisingly
View from our bedroom window
the first morning of scaffolding


If needed, chimney stacks and other penetrations can also be rebuilt. Yes, we had that pleasure, as well.
We provided roof access at the
front of the house, since
we had the cortile in which to
park trucks and unload supplies
This is the final step for workers
to access the site

Building up
The scaffolding is much
higher and larger than the
photo can convey

One of the many stacks of roof tiles
Remo and Bogdan at work on the chimney
In the firm belief that a picture is worth a thousand words, I provide these photos (taken over a period of months, due to quarantining!)
Tile removal and chimney
reconstruction. Remo was our
expert in this photo.
Gutter mounts installed
at roof edge

Copper gutter mounts

Patrick installing insulation
Bogdan installing the membrane
Almost at the peak!
Working the other side
Scaffolding down, new copper gutters!


 Love,

Alexandra




















































Sunday, June 14, 2020

What's Old is News

I just discovered recently, through reading an article in our local magazine Città Viva that a well has been reopened in Todi. Sounds relatively mundane, but the real interest is that its existence had been lost to local knowledge for the last several hundred years and only rediscovered in the past six years. Last year, the local historical society obtained permission to reopen the site.

The well itself is located on the Via del Mezzomuro, which is halfway down the main drag leaving town, and is a road that has one of the medieval walls on one side, and open views on the other. It was historically a boundary between the city and agricultural land that was protected by the outer walls, but housing supplanted the orchards just after the second world war. As a result, it's now fairly central in the residential part of the city.

As described in the article, the well was used during the Middle Ages in the treatment of ergotism (St. Anthony's Fire) and scabies, and was thought to have curative powers (particularly when combined with a salve made with oils and the fruit of a euonymous (spindle bush) plant. Conveniently situated near the church of St. Anthony (the patron saint of ergotism and skin maladies), which had an associated hospital -- this hospital became the site of one of Todi's butchers, since closed, and was originally part of the shoemaker's fraternity -- it is possible that its purportedly curative powers were more due to the care people received in this local clinic.

While the well's origins are not known precisely, historians were able to use the local archives to track down the first time it's mentioned in the records: January 30, 1297; at this time, it is noted that the well was decayed and in need of repair. This indicates fairly obviously that the well antedated this period by a fair number of years.

The well is noted at various times in the history of the city, and the area was very important in the town's rope-making industry. For centuries, roughly from the 1500s to the 1700s, the nearby fields were used to grow hemp, which was beaten and softened in dedicated basins on the Via del Mezzomuro, and then carded and processed into rope and fabrics.

In 1764, the Dominicans received permission to divert the water from the well, which at that time they described as "derelict", to a fish pond that they'd created in their adjacent gardens. However, they were forced to block up this diversion when the Augustinians got annoyed because that reduced the flow to their fountain, which also relied on this water source.

With time, the well was no longer used, to the point that it does not appear on the cities list of viable wells dating to 1836. It appears in the record as an historical well in what amounts to a tourist/history guide that was published in 1856.

Porta Sant'Antonio, the Via
del Mezzomuro is to the
left just before the gate
After that, it was completely forgotten until someone happened to be looking at maps in the (closed, archaeological site) church of Santa Maria in Cammuccia. Lodged in the stack of maps, was a cluster of original documents discussing a fight between the Dominicans and the Augustinians over the use of a fountain -- a fountain of which present-day citizens knew nothing! And from this, the search through the records began, culminating in the reopening of the well in December, 2019.



Church of Sant'Antonio

We continue to be amazed by the wealth of history here, as well as the ability of the populace to find information once they know what they're seeking. To have records going back nearly 750 years that describe the location of the well is extraordinary...at least, to us. Here, it's practically mundane.

Love,

Alexandra