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| Fall has come! |
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| The yellow was actually a bright salmon in real life. |
Love,
Alexandra
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Light...and impressionism
The light is extraordinary here. Being on the hilltop, the setting sun illuminates the buildings' faces, and sends a purple sheen over the valley. This experience has really helped me understand and appreciate the impressionists' work even more than before: the same view is always different, and must be captured instantly because it changes so quickly. The problem is, even if I were able to capture the colors, you wouldn't believe them to be real!
Love,
Alexandra
Love,
Alexandra
Lace again!
The bobbin lace update:
I've finished my leaf, and I'm on to a border now which incorporates some new stitches!
The bad (and scary!) news is that my teacher, Laura, is having eye problems -- in her right eye she reports that she has only half her field of vision. Since her livelihood depends directly on her eyesight, this is understandably terrifying for her. The good news is that they have ruled out a brain tumor; she's hoping to find out soon what's causing it.
Love,
Alexandra
I've finished my leaf, and I'm on to a border now which incorporates some new stitches!
Love,
Alexandra
Styles
Over here, there is a quite broader range of styles for men and boys. In America, how many times do you see:
A forty-year-old man in a lilac suit
A thirty-something year-old man in mustard pants and a bright pink shirt (quiet a shocking combination, I agree)
Teenage boys in blue, purple, pink, green, red, etc. skinny jeans (Ben Wise would be quite happy here!)
A sixty-year-old man in bright green jeans
Silk scarves for men (bright colors, and bold patterns)
I like it that way because men and boys are allowed to show expression (no rigid fashion rules!)
It is quite expected that everyone wears color. Today I wore Eleanor's jeans to school, and most people were shocked that I knew how to wear jeans! But everyone in my class commented on how cute they were on me (well, everyone except for one person). I get a lot of encouragement from my friends, and nobody looks at me like I have gone mad, as I walk around town in my ankle length skirt and my conservative sweaters. I had one question about my skirt, but only one. I think that it is very nice not to get strange looks because I am wearing things that were in style quite a while ago.
I also get compliments all the time! It is so pleasant!
Ciao
F
A forty-year-old man in a lilac suit
A thirty-something year-old man in mustard pants and a bright pink shirt (quiet a shocking combination, I agree)
Teenage boys in blue, purple, pink, green, red, etc. skinny jeans (Ben Wise would be quite happy here!)
A sixty-year-old man in bright green jeans
Silk scarves for men (bright colors, and bold patterns)
I like it that way because men and boys are allowed to show expression (no rigid fashion rules!)
It is quite expected that everyone wears color. Today I wore Eleanor's jeans to school, and most people were shocked that I knew how to wear jeans! But everyone in my class commented on how cute they were on me (well, everyone except for one person). I get a lot of encouragement from my friends, and nobody looks at me like I have gone mad, as I walk around town in my ankle length skirt and my conservative sweaters. I had one question about my skirt, but only one. I think that it is very nice not to get strange looks because I am wearing things that were in style quite a while ago.
I also get compliments all the time! It is so pleasant!
Ciao
F
Thursday, November 1, 2012
All you holy men and women, pray for us!
Today was All Saints' Day. Which is, of course, a holiday here. Interestingly, there was no procession or anything really overt. Michael & James went to Mass in the Duomo this morning, and reported that all the reliquaries were spread out on the altar. I, of course, could not resist the opportunity to go to the Mass that would be held at the old cemetery -- just outside the town.
In the afternoon, the girls, Jeremy, and I went down the hill and through Porta Perugina. Another 100 meters, and there we were.
Cemeteries here are very different from those found in most of the US, although older cities like New Orleans and Boston feature similar styles in some of their graveyards. They truly are cities for the dead, with a surrounding wall, houses/shrines, roads, and open areas. The location of this one has an amazing view (big surprise).
We started our Mass by saying a rosary in procession through the graveyard. Then we repaired to the adjoining chapel for Mass. Afterwards, I went out to take some pictures so you could get a better feel for what it's like. There are olive groves just beyond the wall, and many people had freshened up the graves with flowers: the expected chrysanthemums, but a lot of cyclamen, lilies, roses, and several orchids as well.
Have a blessed All Saints' Day -- and don't forget All Souls' Day tomorrow!
Love,
Alexandra
In the afternoon, the girls, Jeremy, and I went down the hill and through Porta Perugina. Another 100 meters, and there we were.
Cemeteries here are very different from those found in most of the US, although older cities like New Orleans and Boston feature similar styles in some of their graveyards. They truly are cities for the dead, with a surrounding wall, houses/shrines, roads, and open areas. The location of this one has an amazing view (big surprise).
We started our Mass by saying a rosary in procession through the graveyard. Then we repaired to the adjoining chapel for Mass. Afterwards, I went out to take some pictures so you could get a better feel for what it's like. There are olive groves just beyond the wall, and many people had freshened up the graves with flowers: the expected chrysanthemums, but a lot of cyclamen, lilies, roses, and several orchids as well.
Have a blessed All Saints' Day -- and don't forget All Souls' Day tomorrow!
Love,
Alexandra
Scout outing
What none of us had understood (or maybe I'm the only dope) was that the Scout meeting that was scheduled for the families on Sunday was combined with Eleanor's campout. Since there were six of us AND I didn't know we were going, I cadged a spot (actually two) in someone's car -- and the chance to caravan.
Alessandra didn't quite know what she was letting herself in for when she said she'd lead us to San Terenziano. Bear in mind that the area's hilly. Think about the load of four passengers in my car. Let's just say she had to wait for us a few times!
In any case, we all got there safely, and she got someone to take us to where the adults' meeting was held -- after we'd seen all the tents on the lawn and the penny dropped. The adults' meeting constituted discussing some common issues we as parents have, and brainstorming ways to get our children to see the light. I thought it was sweet that the Scouts included parenting assistance. Having five children, though, it was rather amusing to see them searching for the one correct technique...
After the meeting, we all collected for Mass in the church (where Eleanor had been frying chicken the night before). And this was when the fun really began for me. The church held about 150 seated, and it was crammed to the gills -- standing room only. The Scouts were all in the front, up at the altar, sitting on the floor. The priest (not the Scouts priest, but the parish priest) seemed rather overwhelmed by all the people, but he did express his welcome very nicely.
During the Alleluia -- this was SO CUTE! -- the Scouts all took off their kerchiefs and twirled them up high on their fingers! The exuberance was really charming. Also, during the Gospel, they used the Scout pledge sign (the three middle fingers upraised, pinkie and thumb crossed on the palm) next to their face as a sign that they were ready to listen (they do it this way during meetings as well). I loved seeing that many people in the church with that much enthusiasm.
After the Mass, we had the opportunity to go down into the lower level. This was actually an older church, from the 400s (possibly), which had previously hosted the sepulchre of San Terenziano (the first bishop of Todi). When they opened up his sarcophagus to move the bones upstairs to the new church (built in the 1300s), the lid cracked. With a waste not, want not mentality, they cemented the lid into the walls.
Also, one doesn't want to waste good carving. So the altar used a piece from a Mithraic temple (the bull was one of the gods, if I'm remembering correctly -- and in Italy is a pretty common symbol of Mithraism).
Next to the altar was a small crypt which held the remains of San somebody else -- San Franno? I can't find that listing and don't quite remember, I'm sorry -- clearly labeled as the remains of San Terenziano. Labeled on a piece of paper. Which we were told specifically was incorrect. I'm not sure why it hasn't occurred to anyone there to change the label...
After Mass and our little tour, we had our potluck lunch in the auditorium. Why the Scouts made their dinner in the church and not this space, I couldn't tell you. It was a lovely, casual affair (it was a bit cold and rainy-ish), with people passing food around for sharing. I knew we were in Italy, though, when the homemade wines came out. I sampled a sparkling red which was quite tasty. After lunch? Espresso in thermoses, of course.
Following this, we all got to go stand in the cold and damp to watch the moving-up ceremony. The troops stood and had little presentations, songs, and a little obstacle course of some sort as the ritual. It included lots of laughter, warmth, and joy -- almost enough to keep us warm! It really was freezing, though, and I was impressed at how willing everyone was to stay outside in it for so long.
And then -- home!
Love,
Alexandra
Alessandra didn't quite know what she was letting herself in for when she said she'd lead us to San Terenziano. Bear in mind that the area's hilly. Think about the load of four passengers in my car. Let's just say she had to wait for us a few times!
In any case, we all got there safely, and she got someone to take us to where the adults' meeting was held -- after we'd seen all the tents on the lawn and the penny dropped. The adults' meeting constituted discussing some common issues we as parents have, and brainstorming ways to get our children to see the light. I thought it was sweet that the Scouts included parenting assistance. Having five children, though, it was rather amusing to see them searching for the one correct technique...
After the meeting, we all collected for Mass in the church (where Eleanor had been frying chicken the night before). And this was when the fun really began for me. The church held about 150 seated, and it was crammed to the gills -- standing room only. The Scouts were all in the front, up at the altar, sitting on the floor. The priest (not the Scouts priest, but the parish priest) seemed rather overwhelmed by all the people, but he did express his welcome very nicely.
During the Alleluia -- this was SO CUTE! -- the Scouts all took off their kerchiefs and twirled them up high on their fingers! The exuberance was really charming. Also, during the Gospel, they used the Scout pledge sign (the three middle fingers upraised, pinkie and thumb crossed on the palm) next to their face as a sign that they were ready to listen (they do it this way during meetings as well). I loved seeing that many people in the church with that much enthusiasm.
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| San Terenziano's erstwhile sarcophagus |
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| Sarcophagus lid |
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| Altar taken from Mithraic temple |
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| Entrance to the crypt |
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| The tomb in the crypt |
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| This is a picture of the gathering space of the lower church |
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| Recycled carving... |
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| The church entry had to be extended to allow for the church above. |
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| Entry to the lower church. If you go in the left arch (just visible at the edge), you can come face to face with the bodies of many, many martyrs and unspecified saints (according to our guide). |
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| View as you leave the lower church |
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| Some more recycling |
After Mass and our little tour, we had our potluck lunch in the auditorium. Why the Scouts made their dinner in the church and not this space, I couldn't tell you. It was a lovely, casual affair (it was a bit cold and rainy-ish), with people passing food around for sharing. I knew we were in Italy, though, when the homemade wines came out. I sampled a sparkling red which was quite tasty. After lunch? Espresso in thermoses, of course.
Following this, we all got to go stand in the cold and damp to watch the moving-up ceremony. The troops stood and had little presentations, songs, and a little obstacle course of some sort as the ritual. It included lots of laughter, warmth, and joy -- almost enough to keep us warm! It really was freezing, though, and I was impressed at how willing everyone was to stay outside in it for so long.
Love,
Alexandra
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