Wednesday, July 12, 2017

On to Krakow!

Yesterday was spent mostly in packing and on the train, although we did have time for a traditional lunch of baked potatoes, which were scrumptious! Our first impressions of Krakow were delightful: it was dusk, and we had to walk through Medieval walls and just inside the walls adjacent to the most charming buildings in order to get to our hotel. The hotel dates to the 1700s, and has a great entryway (although the room itself is set up as a hostel, and must confess that it's not shall we say the most luxurious apartment we've ever seen...it is clean, though, so that's all to the good!).

Since we arrived late, we decided to dine in the restaurant next door. It was so pleasant: our waiter speaks quite a bit more English than we do Polish, but was nonetheless a little limited. During the course of our meal, we exchanged a ton of smiles and he attempted to teach us a few more phrases (not altogether successfully, I must admit). He even let us stay in the garden well past the normal garden closure time and brought us some meringues as a treat for when we were paying our bill! A complete love.

And then off to bed in preparation for an early start.

Love,

Alexandra

Going Separate Ways

Today, Jeremy got up early to catch the train to a nearby town where they had a locomotive museum. Florence and I declined his kind invitation to join him (he will provide his own post on his day) and instead went to the Planetarium to purchase tickets for the evening's performance, then walked up to the Royal Palace. Completely shattered during WWII, it has been restored to its former splendor. And splendid it was! The floors were all beautifully laid in marquetry work, the furniture was lovely, and the marble work was sublime! Plus more gilding than you can shake a stick at. Plenty of portraits (I'd imagine most of these had been tucked away during the war for protection) that actually were from the 1700s, and so on. A delightful visit!
Next to the bridge, these are stairs down to the lower level

Loved the stonework!

They had sandboxes and play areas near the river

Part of Old Town. The castle is the building to the right with the tower.

The castle staff setting up for a concert in the courtyard


Private chapel

Every room had a different flooring pattern


Loved the plasterwork in the staircase



The marble on the table is lovely!

The throne room. During the occupation,
German soldiers tore off every single eagle and destroyed all but one.

A state meeting room

Complete with amazing ceiling

Never seen a doorknob like this one...

The king's bedroom. Back in the day,
they advocated sleeping upright, as it was considered more healthful.
Perhaps it helped stave off pneumonia or help with TB?
Or maybe just their myth.

We spotted this right away as being Florentine work
Have I mentioned yet that it's raspberry season here? You can get a very decent-sized container of fresh, plump, perfect berries for not a lot of money, so it's clearly our obligation to take advantage of that (raspberries are essentially impossible to get in Todi...when you can find them, they're expensive and pitiful). So, in the course of our peregrinations, raspberries would figure largely into the plot.

Gradually heading back to Centrum to meet Albert (a friend's cousin), we also took in the Chopin House Museum, which was interesting in its way but actually somewhat sparse on the basics of his life...which of course I'd forgotten. There were a few little plaques with some descriptions, but more things like poorly reproduced photographs of paintings and some original letters. That said, the house was pretty, so it certainly wasn't a waste of time.


The Chopin House Museum

And Centrum! Florence found the most adorable pair of shoes ever, and I managed to get a new phone to replace the horrid one that I'd hated since I bought it, and which had succeeded in dying our first day here. So this was definitely a win. Albert then accompanied us to a lovely street, still intact, on the other side of the river. Wide streets, sidewalks equally wide -- which permitted restaurant dining outside -- and architecture from the 1920s. The architecture was actually really interesting, because it made me think of sort of modernist 1960s/70s concrete construction in the states. Some of it was blocky, but many of the structures had curves and interesting lines.

We tried to get into a specific restaurant Albert had in mind, but it was unfortunately full. A quick car ride away, and we reached the riverfront near the planetarium. At the riverfront there are a number of different stand-up dining opportunities, and our cicerone heartily recommended the Thai. He wasn't wrong at all...delicious!

Off to the planetarium for our concert. Live piano music with swirling stars and planets and constellations. It was a really interesting and enjoyable performance, as well as being relaxing after our long day (I worked it out later; we ended up walking about 6 miles today, and I got a really nice blister as a souvenir); I may or may not have drifted off once or twice.

Dessert at a chocolate specialist, and time to get back to the apartment!

Love,

Alexandra

Going to the Zoo!

When James was younger, he used to make stuff up that he'd seen, and tell the most imaginative stories ever. Thus, when he told us he'd seen a zebra out his train window on our very first trip to Todi, we essentially all told him he was full of nonsense and not to be silly...until we all actually saw the zebras our next time riding those tracks! Zebras in Italy?

We never tracked down the zebras (admittedly, we didn't hunt very hard) until just before we all went our separate ways. Since I left for Poland directly afterwards, I have just got around to writing about our adventure.

Sunday a week ago, Michael and I took the boys on a mysterious adventure. They were quite curious about where we were going and made all kinds of guesses...until they started seeing the signs for "Leo Wild Park"; at that point, it was pretty obvious. Bear in mind that this is about, oh, 15 minutes from Todi (if that).

It turns out that Leo Wild Park is about the most peculiar wildlife zoo? sanctuary? I have ever been to. You have to have reservations, and at least 10 people have to make reservations or they won't open. But the 10 people don't have to be all one group. Or something. I still don't quite get how it works, but that's fine. And we didn't have reservations, but once we told them that the peregrine falcon had been ours, they were quite happy to chat about it for a while and let us in despite our not having reserved (with, of course, the usual admonitions to reserve next time).

That said, we had a delightful walk around, admiring all sorts of wildlife (including alpacas and rheas wandering around with us) and, yes, zebras.
Zebras!


A hot zebra





The dudes with the stripy legs are a special kind of donkey. Tunisian, maybe?












The deer had reindeer-like furry horns

Loved the tree bark!

The camel's humps were deflated!!!

Love,

Alexandra

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Exams

Because this was my last year of high school, I had to take the state exams. The state exams consist of four parts: the prima prova, the seconda prova, the terza prova and the orali. Those names are very imaginative and translate to "first test," "second test," "third test," and "orals."

The exams test us on what we learned in specific subjects during the fifth year. In addition, we have to present a "percorso di studio" which is basically further study on something that we found interesting and how it relates to what we studied at school. Most people do it in the form of a mini-thesis.

We don't know exactly which subjects are going to be on the exams until mid-April, apart from Italian (always obligatory). At that point, the government releases a statement specifying the subject matters to be included and how the exams will be proctored. This year, all the language schools had physics and French (with the proctors coming from other schools) and a second language (this year, English) tested by their own teachers. Additionally, our teachers had to get together to decide the remaining subjects to be tested.

That is how we ended up with Italian, English, French, physics, math and history/philosophy on our tests. The prima prova is always Italian. That's just how it is. You can choose between writing a newspaper article or a short essay, or analysing a poem. You have six hours to do this.  The day of the day of the prima prova, you also have to turn in an outline of your research topic, so you have to have that ready, as well.

When a language, the seconda prova is similar to the prima prova, except the writing part is shorter and you have some short response questions. I was lucky, because English was chosen. The seconda prova is not always a language: one class had to do a latin translation and another had to do a test on Italian law.

The terza prova is by far the hardest. You have three hours to do it and involves four different subjects, each of which has either two or three questions. You have to answer with an 8-10 line response, and thereby demonstrate you know the material well. This is difficult because you questions can be very specific or alternatively very vague, to the point that you don't necessarily know what is pertinent to the response (and, being a year's worth of material, the small number of questions makes you vulnerable to small gaps in knowledge).

For the orals, you have to present your research, answer questions about it, and then answer anything else that the teachers feel like asking, which could be anything.

I did my tesina on music. I started with sound waves and what they are. Then I talked about Schopenhauer and the hierarchy of the arts. I then went on to talk about Baudelaire, D'annunzio and Wilde, concentrating on their thoughts on music (part of the goal of a tesina in the linguistic high school is to demonstrate that you can use the language, so we are encouraged to present authors in the language that they wrote in, so I had a tri-lingual thesis). Then I talked about a music/language called Silbo Gomera which is a language composed of whistles. After that, I presented the effects that music has on our brains, and how the authors' ideas that I had previously discussed held true from a scientific point of view.

I'm still waiting for my results, so fingers crossed... Ciao,
Florence

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Escaping the Heat

It's July. In Todi, that means hot weather. Without air conditioning (which, truthfully, is borderline okay because you sleep in the mid-afternoon with fans running, and go to the pool and take cold showers, but still). We had a mid-June heat wave, and although things are cooler now, I'm not sad to be able to say that a few of us have escaped.

That long preamble was just to say that Florence, Jeremy, and I are now in Poland. Warsaw, to be exact. Europe is a continent that is blessed with low airfares, meaning that travel is a very real possibility. Taking the 6 pm flight from Rome meant that we were at the apartment by 9. This is NOT a Polish dinner time, but we did find a restaurant recommended by a friend that would take us at that late hour. It was spectacular!

Cold beetroot soup, duck pierogis, mussels, veal shank, and more! We all had our fill (including sharing a delicious fresh raspberry tart) for about $50, and the waiter was very kind about the fact that we were keeping him late.

Time for bed so we can be ready for some intensive sightseeing tomorrow!

Love,

Alexandra

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Suffrage, Tudertina style

By virtue of my British citizenship, I have (had? With Brexit, who knows?) the right to vote in European elections and local elections, but not national elections.

I missed the deadline for the last European elections because I found out about the right to vote at the last moment (much to my dismay; I love finding out about how different countries do things, and voting is certainly important!). So when it was time to elect a local mayor, I definitely wanted to be counted!

Here was the process:

1. I went to City Hall to tell them I wanted to vote. They were very welcoming and kind, but said that I couldn't register yet because it was too early. One can only register a maximum of x number of days in advance (45? This detail eludes me now). The only problem was that the date of the election had not yet been fixed, so they had no idea of when I could/should actually register. I was to come back "at some point, probably in May."
2. I went back to City Hall, in May. They were so happy to see me, remembered the situation, and nope! Still too early. Plus, technical problem: they didn't yet have the recent voter registration forms. They were extremely accommodating, though, and suggested (to avoid a third trip) that I fill in the old forms since they would probably be identical (except for the year printed at the top). If they couldn't use that form, they assured me that they would call.
3. Feeling a bit nervous, I went back a few weeks later. Everything was great! And ready! And the forms I had used would be just fine! Now, I just had to wait for a letter from the city to tell me that I had been approved and could pick up my voter registration card. I waited.
4. The letter arrived. In the meantime, however, I had learned that the elections had in fact been scheduled...for the time that I would be in Milan! GAH! That meant no voting for me...there is no provision for an absentee ballot. My only chance to vote would be if there were a runoff election; this was a possibility, given that there were something like 7 candidates. Discouraged, I didn't bother to run by City Hall to get my voter card.
5. While in Milan, I heard that there would, in fact, be a runoff! Much excitement in the Hook camp (at least on my part). Sadly, the candidates were "not great" and "worse," which of course does diminish one's enthusiasm. Nonetheless, new experiences, right?
6. I went by City Hall to pick up my voter registration card. This is what they gave me:
This is about 4" x 7", trifold

They add a stamp when you vote. This is good for up to 18 elections.



7. Time for the actual voting! A room in Jeremy's school had been converted into a polling center. This involved installing access ramps to the school, and a few carabinieri sprinkled about the place. Upon entering, the officials indicated a room, where one of my acquaintances (Barbara) greeted me enthusiastically. There were two registration tables: women's and men's (for no apparent reason, but whatever). Barbara couldn't check me in because she was at the men's table, but told the fellow at the women's table that she knew me so don't worry about the identity card. I pulled it out anyway. I was handed a large (9" by 18"?) piece of paper that was a tealy blue on the outside with lots of hashmarks (to prevent visibility, I'd guess). On the inside, the space was divided into two large squares via borders. One square had the name of "not great" with his supporting parties. The other had "worse" and his supporting parties. I had been told to cross out the name of the candidate for whom I wanted to vote and leave the other as-is. As I entered the booth (a little temporary aluminum jobby with black curtains, much as in the US), I realized that they'd given me a pencil. REALLY? This didn't give a lot of confidence, particularly given that there had already been rumors of vote-tampering. To proceed: I disobeyed the rules and not only crossed out the name of "not great" but also wrote his name in the square containing his name. Hard. I wanted to do what I could to make sure that my vote wasn't changed. Who knows, perhaps that was enough to disqualify my ballot, but I at least wanted my intention to be clear. Next step was to fold the ballot into eighths and drop it into a large cardboard box with a slit cut into the top. Oh, the box had a paper label stuck to it that said something about its being a ballot box.

And, done!

So, a few observations:
1. The campaigning started for one candidate a few months in advance, but many didn't announce their candidacy until about two weeks in advance.
2. In the first round of voting, not only could one vote for the mayor of choice, but also for councilors. Each councilor also announce his/her candidacy under a particular mayor's flag, as it were. These candidacies were announced largely via Facebook.
3. Once the runoff had been established, the non-elect mayoral candidates were expected to show their support for one of the two in the runoff. All their councilors were then subsumed into that chosen candidate.
4. The winning mayoral candidate would then take for his ten councilors those who had taken the most personal votes in the prior election (whether or not they were on his original ballot).

Oh, and I checked with Barbara later. She said very definitely that the pencils were specially designed to write only on the ballot paper, and could not be erased from the paper once it had been marked.

Love,

Alexandra

(Oh, and "not great" won by 26 votes!)

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Musical weekend, plus Corpus Domini

Because the calcetto tournament and road race weren't enough, this was also the weekend of the musical festival AND Corpus Domini.

Different musical groups perambulated to 17 different locations and played mini-concerts all Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. We will also have a battle of the bands in the Piazza Tuesday evening; I can't wait!

We had a combination of singers, dancers, and other performers throughout the day. The spaces were as varied as the ballroom of the Palazzo Pensi, the cisterns, and little courtyards in town.

Greek dancers


Flamenco

Some kind of funky mouth organ


This group was really fantastic

Musical school from Rieti, about an hour and a half away

The local choir in the ballroom of the Palazzo Pensi

A singing/dancing group from southern Italy

Their beat is absolutely intoxicating!

Inside a palazzo

An itinerant musician/reciter

Tango! 
Horn ensemble (including Gabriele Falcioni, our church's choir director)




Modern dance


Woodwinds on the steps of the theatre
Sombrero girls!




On the way to Mass, I came across our Corpus Domini decorations...small but pretty!



And then after Mass, the procession!

Love,

Alexandra