The Big, White Whale

Since James is new at his school and decided for a more family-type celebration for his birthday, we suggested a special outing of his choice. We left it pretty open, with a wide variety of possibilities and (much to my delight!) he decided that a day at the hot springs would be lovely.

Now, Tuscany is littered with hot springs, but there aren't so many in Umbria. There are a variety to choose from, though, within a two-hour radius ... so I had my work cut out for me researching them! Essentially, though, it boils down to two main types: spa atmosphere (which has changing rooms, etc., but amounts to an outdoor, hot swimming pool) or more "rustic" (a hot pool in the middle of the wilderness, no facilities at all).

The hot pool in the woods sounded great to James and the rest of us, so I found a highly-rated location called the Bagni di San Filippo and "Il Fosso Bianco" ("the white ditch"), complete with La Balena Bianca ("The White Whale"). The white whale is a limestone formation created by the hard water's depositing its minerals onto the underlying rock substrate. And it is huge!

We cased it out, and there are all kinds of notices like "DO NOT BATHE IN THE POOLS AT IL FOSSO BIANCO" ... meanwhile, you guessed it!, there are bathers all over the place. I inquired delicately, and an apparent resident (?) gave me some charming story about not diving or something. Whatever. He assured me we wouldn't be hauled into the police station.

So, up we went! The water coming downstream at the base of the formation had cooled off and was a bit chilly; meanwhile, the water in these delightfully white/blue pools was a delicious warmth. The ambiance was stupendous. Only problem was the pools were a wee thing shallow. Time for a change of locale!

Courtesy of Ashley, the upper portion of Il Fosso Bianco

Another formation, not Il Fosso Bianco

This is not streaming water, but rather residue!

Jeremy found leaves that already had a hard, mineral coating

On Il Fosso Bianco

Our first resting place in the middle of Moby Dick

Hanging out and playing with white clay/silt

We found the ideal spot: named "Goldilock's Pools", we offer you the upper pool (a wee bit too hot), the lowest pool (a wee bit too cold) and the middle pool (juuuust right!). Actually, we ended up moving among the three as we felt the need. It was perfect, because there were other people around, but it was quiet and relaxing and we were right there in the middle of the woods!! Delightful.

The Goldilock's Pool(s)

Heavy construction

View from Goldilock's pool

"This is the life..."

Another view of Il Fosso Bianco (thank you, Ashley!)

Having whiled away an entire afternoon, it was sadly time to head back. The smell of sulphur in the car definitely would have made the devil feel at home, but we were too mellow and relaxed to care.

Love,

Alexandra