Bettona: a sweet side trip

When I was in Deruta for the last Fiat 500 rally, I looked in at the museum there (described in a different post). What became important, though, is the fact that the docent explained that there's a combined ticket to visit a pile of different museums in Umbria. In particular, she noted that there was a very special exhibition of something that was going on in Bettona, and it would only be for a limited time, but it was a BIG DEAL.

Duly not-really-informed, I suggested to Jim and Sharon that we take advantage of my having to drive Jeremy to the airport in Perugia, and that we all go and then return home via Bettona. They were game, so off we went. Jeremy's flight left at just after one, so we said goodbye at about 12:30 and headed off to the flatlands just south of Perugia. I found this particularly confusing because I'd had the impression that Bettona was a hilltop town.

Assisi in the distance

Piazza

City Hall interior

Sure enough! After a while of driving, we headed up the hill and ended in Bettona. Completely surrounded by a wall, this small town has a sum total of two restaurants (one of which was closed), three bars (one of which was closed), and many beautiful buildings. Plus a view that most would envy: one side, gorgeous views of rolling hills and lovely countryside; to the other side, Assisi and Spello plus Perugia. Just stunning. The town itself has a number of earlyish churches (13th century) and a 13th-century City Hall, as well as various other early Medieval structures. It's chock full of intriguing views, alleys, arches, and general interest, but also boasts a beautiful park with an overlook and a lovely piazza.

The overlook boasts a view of Assisi and Spello

Building dating to the 1300s.

Madonna Degli Alberelli
by Eusebio di San Giorgio

San Girolamo, Perugino

After lunch in the only restaurant (of two) open in town, we went to the museum to find out what exactly we were supposed to see and why we were there. The helpful docent explained that we were even luckier than we realized: the special exhibit had technically finished the previous Sunday, but the National Gallery representatives hadn't yet been by to pick up the works. They would be there until Thursday morning only (this was on Tuesday afternoon). It turns out that these are two altar pieces, one of which is by Perugino (a smallish part of a large altar) and the other by Eusebio di San Giorgio (the larger piece of a gigantic altar), that are normally not on display but are rather in a warehouse. When they leave Bettona, they will go back to languishing in the bowels of the National Gallery until further notice. Hurray for us!

There was an interesting archaeological display (including Etruscan loom weights...who knew?), then a small art gallery with a few pieces I could swear I've seen before.

I was intrigued by the inclusion of landscapes in the church's frescoes

After the requisite coffee, we were back on the road, stopping by a local veggie stand to purchase our dinner fixings (eggs, salad, fruit)!

Love,

Alexandra