Friday, March 29, 2013

Friends, rally round!

I went to the rally yesterday!  So much fun to see all those cute little cars hanging out.  Let me start more at the beginning: early!

Sparing you the blow-by-blow of tooth-brushing, etc., Bob and I were ready to set out at about 8 or maybe a little thereafter.  Michael had given me his kiss goodbye and gone down to catch his ride to the race.  And then disaster struck: Florence came to me with tears in her eyes to tell me that her friend Elena might not be able to drive her to the swim meet in Perugia.  Oh, no!

And what it meant was that I had to roust poor Leo out of bed early on a Sunday and tell him something along the lines of, "Florence is supposed to go to a swim meet in Perugia, but I have no idea where it was supposed to be exactly, nor at what time.  The parents of a friend were planning to pick her up at 10 this morning, and I'm about to leave in the car for my rally.  I can't talk on the phone in the car because it's too hard to drive and talk, AND you can't hear anything. She belongs to the team meeting at the gym in Pantalla.  Can you please be our savior yet again and help her figure out where she's supposed to be and get her there somehow?  Pretty please?"

Poor man, he sighed and indubitably muttered imprecations to himself about those crazy Hooks.

Off Bob and I sailed, content in the knowledge that Florence was well looked after.  We made sure we enjoyed our drive to the utmost by getting lost about six times on the way! Have you heard about how Google maps is foolish enough to give you highway names (rather than "direction of x town"), ensuring that you can't possibly find your way (highway name signs are non-existent here)?  Well, this time I outsmarted the system by having my own lovely large-scale map of Umbria with us.  It turns out that this is an Italian map: the highway names or numbers are not labeled!  So on the rare occasion that we actually SAW a number, it did us absolutely no good whatsoever!  Confounding the issue was the fact that any town names on signs were non-existent on our map and vice-versa.


We went in the correct general direction and then asked. And asked. And asked. We were like a homing missile, overshooting here and correcting, overshooting there and correcting, and so on. I was so excited when I saw my first 500 heading towards the rally!  







They didn't all have to be Fiat 500s.




Don't you love the station wagon?


The VW bug looked like a complete monster!

The steering wheel on this one was unusually small -- about 10" diameter




At Umbertide

We made it & registered in plenty of time, and were there for the start of the drive to Umbertide.  There we were, all in a cute little line.  An impatient motorcyclist zoomed on by, much to my bemusement...and then I realized that he was our escort!

About an hour later, we made it to Umbertide.  We parked next to the Rocca, and explored this fortress that dates to the 1200s or so. After a little while, it was time to drive back!






La Rocca di Umbertide

Bob joining me at the fortress










View from the turret
The spout -- 1700s? The faucet -- 1950s styling.  The plaque -- 1990!
In one of the turrets
View of the parking lot from the fortress

Aren't they adorable?
Grinding stone of some sort
Handy grate for boiling oil & the like
I thought this was a neat door with a face hole.
Toilet?
Back of door, showing face hole lock, etc.
Back in Mantignana, it was time for lunch.  And not just any lunch.  You have to understand that the Italians take their food very seriously.  Appetizer of devil-type egg (half hard-boiled egg with anchovy coiled around a circle of mayonnaise), prosciutto, salami, etc., with local beans dish (think pork 'n' beans).  Pasta (scrumptious).  Main course of veggie, three different meats (sausage, pork, and something else that was yummy).  Dessert of colomba (the Easter answer to panettone) and biscotti served with vin santo.  And, yes, wine was flowing more quickly than water.
Sadly, it was time to go home.  Bob and I managed to be equally circuitous on our way back.  A funny episode involved Solomeo.  I knew quite firmly that we did not want to go via Solomeo.  So with every sign we encountered, I avoided that direction.  Where did we end up?  You got it...Solomeo.  At that point, the "best" way back was to go to Agello.  Following the signs for Agello...did not get us to Agello.  However, we fortunately found ourselves somewhere I recognized, so we could navigate quite happily from there -- quite probably not our the most advantageous route. For your amusement, I attempted to capture some of our driving...bear in mind that some of the circles may have been covered more than once
Love,
Alexandra

Monday, March 25, 2013

Eleanor's chicken!

We wanted Bob to make the famous Passover chicken, so off we trotted to the butcher's.  After some consultation, we decided that the 2 kilo chicken would work. You understand, this is the chicken that still has the head & feet attached.

Paola asked for confirmation that we wanted the head taken off...Eleanor cried in dismay that we should take it back home in its entirety.  And she was "volunteered" by me to help Bob pack the chicken with salt tonight, which is what they're doing at the moment.

The first attempt with our best knife was, um, interesting.  Hearing shrieks of "euh" and "oh no!" they moved to the serrated knife.  After not too long, they realized that the chicken was REALLY entire -- as in, guts still intact.  The only cleaning that's been done to this bird is the feather removal.

Here are some of the things I'm hearing from the kitchen (I'm pretending to be a sofa cushion at the moment):

"The only cleaning I do on a chicken is removing the plastic bag"
"What's that?"
"Okay, I think that's the gall bladder, this is the pericardial sac.  I've only dissected a pig heart, which is a million times bigger."
"A pig heart is also a four cylinder"
"Okay, this is the crop, I think"
"Florence, google 'cleaning a chicken', will you please?"
"This is so gross, I can't believe it."
"This is probably the gunk you pulled out previously"
"The kidneys are hard to cut into"
"Jeremy wait, don't take away my kidney."
"I'm going to cut off this toenail"
"Okay, if you want this to be Eleanor blood-flavored chicken, I can keep working on this -- otherwise someone else will have to do it." "Eleanor blood-flavored chicken sounds fine to us."
"that's gross"
"I'm going to dissect its head."
The crowd before Ashley left in revulsion
"There are some parts of the chicken that aren't that fun to dissect." "Like what?" "Like the crop, which I just dissected."

Love,

Alexandra








Swim meet!

This Sunday I went to a swim meet! After some doubt about how I was getting there, Leonardo  (the all-time hero of travelers) drove me to the GYM, at which point, Elena met me and drove me to the meet. When we got there, we got changed, and headed out to the pool deck where the younger group was doing races. The opposing team had roughly five swimmers to our one and some races we couldn't field a single swimmer.

When the coach walked up, I tried to pay him some money that I had promised him. He looked at me and said that he'd get it later. In a few minutes, he came back, I paid him and he walked off. When he came back he gave me the team shirt and swim cap (blue with an orange logo) at some point I assume I'll get the team swimsuit (orange with a blue logo). We took some photos of the team. At that point the younger kids had finished, so we got in the pool for warm ups.

After warm ups we all stood around talking until our event came. No event numbers. No signs. Just knowing who was swimming before you. Elena, my desk mate (she's very nice, helpful, sweet and funny), asked one of the girls who was swimming in the same event to tell me when to go. After a bit, I swam (backstroke- this was a backstroke/breaststroke meet) I did okay- I got 4th or 5th place. about twenty minutes later I was told that I was swimming on a relay- this was a pay-by-event meet that I hadn't paid for.

I stood around for a while- it didn't seem like long- and then I went over and talked to Elena's mom. Then I realized I had to go swim my relay. I raced over (almost) and gave my shirt to one of my team mates (you have to wear shirts and flip-flops when you aren't swimming); I got there just in time and I went second on my relay. We got behind a bit on the first lap, but we still managed to place 3rd! Over here, they give you medals then and there (well, after the meet has finished). One thing I didn't mention- all of the relay teams had both boys and girls on them, whereas in the US, if you only have three girls, you can't put in a relay for the girls. We got changed (and dried our hair-VERY IMPORTANT). Elena's mom very kindly drove me home... and then I slept for the rest of the day- I got home a little after 2.
Ciao,
Florence

Sunday, March 24, 2013

About 10K in Terni

For a little while I have been training with Massimo, a local runner who is kind enough to put up with my slow pace and poor Italian. He has taken me out on a lot of the local training routes, where we work on my running and my Italian at the same time.

Two weeks ago he invited me to join him for a 12K race in Terni, a nearby town, this weekend. We wouldn't be able to get race numbers, he explained, because you have to have medical permission to participate in a race here. We could run unofficially, though.

Then, this past Friday, he invited me to join the local squad. It turns out that unlike in America, everyone in the races belongs to a team. This being Italy, your team is the one for your town. He is one of the leaders of the squad, and after our training run he took me to his house and dug out a brand new team uniform for me. We are even sponsored--by the local blood bank! We have shorts (very short--Italian cut), singlet, and warmups, all covered in logos like you would expect on Italian sportswear.

Today was the race. We met at the local middle school, loaded into two cars, and set off for Terni. They knew the race was in the Zona Industriale in Terni, but didn't worry too much about the directions. We just circled around a little while until we found groups of runners.

It was a very pleasant morning for a race: overcast, calm, and cool but not cold or damp. By the start there were about 500 runners.

There was exactly the amount of organization you would expect in a country that doesn't worry too much about planning but also takes sports seriously. Bathrooms? Use those in the local coffee bars, or find a convenient spot on your "warm-up" run. PA system? Non c'è. Distance? Well, while warming up I saw the 10 km sign on the road near the finish area. Since I was expecting a 12K, I asked "What is the distance?" in my best Italian, and was rewarded with the classic Italian answer, "Boh?!" That is, "I don't have a clue". After a little asking around we found someone who could give us a definitive answer: "about 10 kilometers". At least I knew not to save anything for the 12th kilometer!

Two minutes before the official start time there was still no indication of an effort to start the race. That could have been because the start line was on a road still open to traffic. Then, about the start time, all the runners congregated in the road as if to signal something to happen. A ribbon was stretched across the road, lifted a few times to allow straggling cars to work their way through the crowd, and finally removed. And then, Bang, we were off.

I ended up having a very good race for my first one in a decade. I ran with another team member who I figured would leave me behind after a few kilometers. In the end we ran together for the first 7 km, he led me by a bit for the next 2 km, and I caught and passed him in the last 500 meters. I finished with a 45:31. Unofficially. On a course that was "about 10 km". Since he and I had been running 4:30 min/km splits or better, I figure it was about 10.1 km.

The course itself? Beautifully flat, mostly on asphalt roads. At about 6 km we turned onto a gravel road that was a little potholed. The next turn was a very sharp left turn onto a completely unprepared road: two muddy tracks with a grass strip in between. At that point passing people became a tactical challenge. You had to decide whether you could clear the next puddle if you switched tracks to run by someone. Finally, after a turn through a very muddy underpass, we returned to the paved roads for the last two kilometers.

The race finished back down the first road we went out. The one that they didn't want to block off. Since it was inconvenient to put the finish line in the middle of the road for the 45 minutes that runners would trickle in, they put it in the driveway of a business instead. I'd never seen a race end with a tight 90 degree turn 30 meters from finish line. It was a bit difficult to navigate at full tilt!

Afterwards they had the usual post-race refreshments. Bruschetta with fresh tomato, olive oil, and salt. Diced apples with citric acid sprinkles in cups. Since it was a bit of a drive, we all took sponge baths in the parking lot and changed before for the trip back.

I had a great time, and as I told Massimo later, trying to follow the conversation in the car was harder than the race itself. It must be good for me, and I look forward to the next time. He tells me there is a 10K in Perugia in two weeks. By then I will have had my stress test and will be eligible for a race number!

Michael

Toodling around Todi

A day or two ago, Bob and I couldn't resist a road trip...the sky was so blue and the air so fresh and lovely.  We had intended just to go to the winery, but, well...why not meander a bit?

This is almost all there is to Montenero!
We went down the road past Ponte Naia, but instead of turning right (towards Fiore), went straight -- ending up in a "borgo" called Montenero.  It is the most darling place, built in the 1600s.  Upon chatting with one of the two local inhabitants, I found out that it was most recently owned by someone who died in 1917 as a man with no heirs.  He had a number of palazzi in various towns in the area, and left them to the state as homes for the impoverished.  
But the church is lovely
Closeup of the church door
The palazzo at Montenero
And, of course, you know how that worked out.... with no money for upkeep, the government ended up selling off the property.  Montenero, instead of being the sweet little community that its appearance promises, is a somewhat sad place where only two families live year-round.  The other houses are used as summer or vacation homes on occasion.  The larger buildings?  It was unclear how they are currently used.

After Montenero, we decided that it was our destiny to find "La Foresta Fossile" -- for which I had seen signs in the area.  After enjoying a lovely turn in the countryside, there it was!  Well, rather, there was the "Old Tree Cafe".  Not kidding.  It was a 1950's American-type architecture (well, -ish) set up as a bar.  And La Foresta?  Chiusa (closed), of course.  We were 15 minutes too late.  However, upon looking over the brochure, it appears to be a bunch of fossilized tree stumps...maybe just the pictures will do? 

The thing about countryside roaming is that so many of the roads are built on the ridges, and there isn't much forest around here.  So you end up with these gorgeous views that go for miles!

In one of the valleys, we passed a sign for an 11th-century church.  We looked, shrugged, and turned around so we could have a look.  After all, who knows if/when we would pass that way again?  BOOM! My little car nose-dived into an 8-inch deep rut.  When your wheels are only 18 inches across, it's a big deal...

Shifting down from third to second, we went a bit further....BOOM! Another rut.  Time to change into first -- we were on one of Italy's infamous "white" roads -- and talk about a "strada deformata"! Up and up we went, passing a man standing next to his car who stared at us as though we had lost our minds (why in the world would anyone voluntarily be driving all the way back here?), for miles it seemed.

Our first glimpse...
Bob spotted it first: laughing, he pointed out a decrepit wooden fence next to a pile of brick rubble.  "That must be it!" he said...I chuckled at the humor...and then realized that, yes, it WAS "it".  The good news?  It looks better from other angles.  We did snicker at the explanatory sign though -- among other points, it said as the last feature that on occasional years the feast day is celebrated at that church, with much amusement and recreation for the attendees.  

The church door
 I leave you with some pictures to give you a better sense of the rest of our afternoon...such a lovely day!

Love,

Alexandra


















This is an example of a typical "legible" (not) sign.

A common view of Bob throughout the afternoon!

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Fiore...a flower of a town

Today after dropping Ashley off at volleyball, Jeremy & I decided it was time to take a jaunt into the country.  Luckily, Bob (newly arrived, welcome!) was game to go along for the ride.

Note the deep valleys on the edges
Instead of turning left out of the parking lot, we went to the right.  At the first signpost, we turned right towards the nearest posted town ... 3 kilometers away.

After about a kilometer of bumpy, miserable, well -- what passes for road in the country around here, we came to a very informative sign:



Um...really? Go figure.

Then, around the corner, we came across this breathtaking sight:
 with a lovely tree-lined drive to it, the fortress was magnificent, with views to beat the band.



Continuing on, it just got better: a quintessential medieval fortress with crenellations as if they were going out of style!

Do you see that they're working on it?  BIG project.
Closer view
A few more twists and turns, and we came across the village church.  Sadly, it was not opened for us to see, but an irresistible sight -- laundry hanging off the church porch!

As if we hadn't had enough fun, as we continued through the village, we saw in the (short) distance:

Another fortress!

While I wasn't able to get much information for you, I found out (no surprise) that it's a medieval town on the outskirts of Todi -- thank you, Google!

Love,

Alexandra