Party Time, Italian Style

Today, September 8, is the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. This feast day does not get a whole lot of attention in the States, but the Italians don't like to miss an excuse for a good collective party.

The day started with a market that was like a county fair without the rides and games: lots of toys, candy, and food for sale. This market continued late into the evening instead of ending at noon like most of them do. It was very clear from the crowds (and the parking in nearby fields) that people came into town from a ways around.

At 6 pm we celebrated Mass in Santa Maria della Consolazione (that is this one: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempio_di_Santa_Maria_della_Consolazione). This was a big Mass bringing together all the parishes from around the city, and was celebrated by the bishop. Alexandra and the girls sang in the choir, which had been practicing for three weeks. The Mass was standing room only, with people coming and going the whole time, and an even bigger crowd playing outside on the lawn and at the market across the street.

When the Mass ended and the incense cleared we headed up to Dige's for a quick dinner, and then we hurried back down the hill to be in time for the FIREWORKS. You get that type of unashamed mixing of religious and governmental events here. Even in Mass there was a city flag with a police honor guard.

Those of you in America, or at least those of you younger than I am, have never seen a fireworks show like this one. We were close. The fireworks were shot from further down the hill, so their relative altitude at explosion was much lower. But also, they were simply closer than I have ever seen before. The big ones filled a wide expanse of sky...and knocked you backwards with a BOOM.

What kinds? Everything! Screamers, crinkles, flash-bangs, soft waterfalls, every combination of colors and sparkles, circles, hearts, hearts filled with white sparkles, three-color smiley faces...

And just then they switched to the second launch site from the top of the building behind us! Yep, fireworks directly overhead. These were the smaller ones, the ones that would be the ground show at an American fireworks display, but still plenty big for a very exciting show from the vantage point.

After five minutes of that they switched back the the primary launch site and turn it up a notch. We were treated to at least half an hour of fireworks, with the grand finale launched from both sites simultaneously. Nothing but fireworks horizon to horizon.

As we walked back up the hill we saw one nod to safety: an emergency crew with a standard-issue water truck, parked the wrong way on the approach road. Did I mention the bus that drove through the heart of the crowd 10 minutes into the display? It was like the parting of the sea, and the bus actually made very rapid progress.


We were not the only ones going up the hill. Since this is Saturday night the crowds will be going strong until 1:00. The kebaberia, the pizzeria, and the gelateria were all packed when we went out to satisfy our gelato craving at 10:30.

Michael