The Culture of Naps

When you focus on the cool parts of the day, and sleep a bit at night and then through the midafternoon, an interesting trend emerges -- or rather, you see people emerge.  We went out after dinner last night (about 9:30) to enjoy some of the frozen offerings.  On our way down the steps, we met our neighbor, Albina.  She's completely adorable, loves music (and I think was going to a concert).  We talked kids for a bit, and she's thrilled to have us -- I think she's the only year-round resident in the courtyard.  Bonus:  she doesn't live directly below us (bonus for her, at least!).  Her balcony and front steps are crowded with plants and flowers, and we had already conversed on that subject.

Anyway, we wandered down to Piannegianni and (while we were enjoying our gelato) indulged in some serious people watching in the small piazza there.  It was as if the whole town were there.  Next to the piazza is a tall stone wall with lights on it.  As we stood around, we saw that the wall was teaming with small tan lizards.  It really made me think an awful lot of the townspeople:  from all appearances, the town is deserted (except for tourists) during the pausa, but at night it teems with people.

I said that it seemed the whole town was there?  It was certainly crowded, but as we continued our passeggiata we continued to see people galore.  In the piazza, in the cafes, in the streets.  People with dogs, young children, dating teenagers, and the old folks: they were all there.  Including Klara, the girls' new friend!

So when do they sleep?  You guessed it: in two shifts -- the night (probably 6 or 7 hours) and then during the afternoon (another 2-3 hours).  It's delightfully restful, although we'll see whether it continues to work for us as the jet lag wears off.

In the meantime, we're going to continue acting like lizards -- hibernating during the afternoon & emerging in the cooler hours!